So we left off flat... Not anymore! Imagine a 2 story house, now make that a wave breaking on an offshore reef about a half mile out. Now place yourself on top, and ride down it with the wind quite literally whistling through your ears. That was our Sunday.
We surfed the biggest waves either of us had ever surfed (and we have video proof of max eating it really bad on one wave) Youtube video to follow shortly. The swell arrived and with it some of the most perfect right hander in Ekas history. After days of no swell, you can only imagine our delight, one that Max was feeling better, and two that there were waves finally! Usually a low tide break, we paddled out to inside Ekas at high tide. We saw only one guy out, and he was nothing but a speck on the horizon. I thought he was too far out (usually you catch the wave pretty close to shore) but as we paddled I saw why. A set wave of 3X Overhead (imagine me X3) broke and he got on it perfectly! We were really excited. As we got out we saw why nobody else was out. There was a current pushing you directly into the path of the oncoming swell. Therefore if you stopped paddling you would be crushed. But thankfully Max caught one, then I caught one so we were feeling good. We then talked to the other guy out there, this Californian from Huntington beach who was wrecking it. We took some queues, and got ready for the next set. Max took off trying to catch the wave, but for once my cautious nature paid off and I was in perfect position for the next wave. As I rode down the huge barreling wave, I could just see max getting crushed underneath it (he had missed his wave...) I ended up about 200 meters in from where I started, and after about 3-4 more waves on the head, Max was right next to me. So we paddled back out, but the current had gotten even stronger, and we had to paddle even harder just to stay put. The last thing I saw was the other Californian dropping in on a 24 foot monster, which then crashed on my head. I then caught the tail section of the next one and rode it in. I was exhausted after about 2 hours of constant paddling for only 3 waves. When I made it in we spoke with Jules, and apparently on Max's last wave he took off, realized it was going to close out, and doe off the wave, not quite making it. But we got a good video. We then took naps and paddled back out in the evening, this time to a perfectly breaking left (about 1,5X overhead but it seemed small) that only breaks about 6 times a year. We were getting 1.5 minute long rides, and loving every second of it. When we got out it was dark, and we scored some free food and then slept, solidly for about 10 hours.
A little more about Max's 7 afflictions. The day before the swell hit, we surfed two breaks, in the morning we surfed perfect head high + southern reef, and in the afternoon surfed inside Ekas. As there were no waves Max went with the 15 year old Australian almost pros. He had to paddle about 1 mile over, and when he got there surfed a barreling wave, but there happened to be TONS of sea lice. Sea lice normally don't cause problems, (they don't leave marks) but are merely uncomfortable. In this case it was "like swimming in acid". So I asked why he didn't get out and Max replied "because I didn't want to be shown up by a 15 yr old." Needless (at this point) to say, Max was covered head to toe in little welts that were incredibly itchy. So as we sat watching the upcoming swell Max looked over at me and said, "this is like the 7 deadly plagues, first Jellyfish! then Reef, followed by Insect (Mosquitoes, Max was covered in bites while I had basically none) then Stomach Virus, and then Sea Lice. Wonder whats next? Then Max got crushed by the biggest waves of his life, and afterward oh number 6, Giant Waves... SO I said well I hope number 7 is that you had to hang out with me for 3 weeks, and Max said he hoped not (he didn't want me to be one of his deadly plagues, but I know he actually did)
The next day we escaped from Lombok by driving 3 hours, taking the Ferry for 6 hours (should have taken 4 but the captain couldn't get the direction figured out, and then the deckhands could literally NOT get the boat tied to the dock) and then driving for 2 more hours to Ubud. Oh yeah and we didn't eat anything the whole time so we were absolutely starving. We managed to find a place to stay though. For only 10$ each we had a gorgeous room, with a balcony facing the rice paddies. Breakfast included. We then had a beer, an amazing salad, nasi goreng (fried rice) gado gado (vegetables with peanut sauce) and black rice pudding, all for 10$. We slept like babies, and then had one of the busiest days ever, (which I am just wrapping up now).
Monkey standoff, part 2. We woke to fresh coffee and tea, and amazing eggs with a fruit plate. We walked through rice paddies to the Monkey forest, site of my standoff last year. This time we came armed with bananas, and a good hiding place (Max's shirt). We gave a few out, and got pictures of Monkeys crawling all over us (I had 4 on me at one point). Everything good so far. But then I gave one monkey a banana, but he wasn't satisfied, and tried to bite me (I guess he knew I had more bananas, so I threw them to Max, after which the monkey just started biting towards me, I didn't know what to do (again) so I tried to be bigger then him and scare him, this just pissed him off, so I tried to back slowly away (the preferred method to deal with Monkeys (but this just made him more bold) so I kinda half ran, jumped away and got the heck out of there, Nick plus Monkeys=no good.
We then shopped for a bit, (2 hours in Ubud bargaining from 250,000 (about 25$) to 50,000. Then had lunch for 1.6 dollars, and got on the road, straight through all the traffic of Denpasar, to the beach called Impossibles, a reef break near Uluwatu. We jumped in the water, and promptly were able to connect a ride for the whole reef, (not so impossible) got lost on the way back to old Betsy, drove back into Kuta Bali, dropped off Betsy (we almost ran out of gas, almost caused an accident by driving the wrong way down multiple streets), got a room, got dinner, tried to change my flight, ducked into the clubs here, and then typed this out.
Whew. How much can one do in 16 hours??
Sleep now, surf tomorrow, eat, repeat.
Be back on Thursday!!
See y'all soon!
Nick
SO now we should have some more swell tomorrow, surfing Kuta's legendary beach break!
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